Idle Thoughts

Week 75: San Francisco, CA

Our opening night this week in San Francisco was an unqualified triumph. For me, it felt like a Broadway opening. Eric Idle and John DuPrez, the creators of "Spamalot," were in attendance. Eric came back stage to our dressing rooms to wish all the leading actors well. He had seen the first preview last week and had great things to say about all of us; he told me he felt I was wonderful in the show and "very, very funny." For a comic genius who was a member of one of the most famous comedy teams in history (which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year) to offer me praise like that, for a role that he himself created in the film, was heady stuff indeed. If I had doubts about my work in "Spamalot" they were allayed by the approval of the man himself. Eric and John came up on stage after curtain calls and joined us for the big "Bright Side" singalong, and after the show our presenters here threw us an elegant party at the Hotel Monaco nearby.
As usual, the company got out their Sunday clothes and made a beautiful showing. Above, there's a shot of me with Chris Sutton and his lovely wife, Lyn, together with Eric Idle; and here is a shot of me with our reigning King, John O'Hurley, and his beautiful real life Queen, Lisa. Such a great kickoff to our run here.

I have been, for the first time on this tour, living the classic life of an actor. San Francisco offers so much fun and entertaining nightlife that I have been out on the town virtually after every performance of the show, staying out til all hours, rising in the late morning and using the afternoon hours to get to the gym or a yoga class, or to see something of the city. This is unusual for an early riser like me--in almost all the other cities I have gotten up early and been out and about sightseeing every day. The long and short of it is, there is much of San Francisco to explore and I have not seen a whole lot just as yet. Part of the reason is that it is quite a complicated city to get around in--once you figure out the tangle of subways, buses and cable cars, you have to prepare yourself for the inevitable walking, which is really climbing. And I tell you, it can be a challenge, even for the physically fit, to do a full day of exploring in San Francisco. I have managed to wander around the Nob Hill neighborhood where I am staying, marveling at the classic architecture, the beauty of Grace Cathedral, the majesty of the Hotel Fairmount, and the views of the city from atop the hill. Each neighborhood has its own character, and I look forward to seeing more of this beautiful city as the weeks go on. If I can get out of bed in the morning!

We are preparing for a benefit which we will be performing in a couple weeks on our "dark night," for a local AIDS charity as well as Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS. Various company members are coming up with musical numbers and dance pieces to perform and we are going to appear alongside members of the cast of "Wicked." I am doing a number by musical theatre composer William Finn, which was suggested by my friend Tim, who is organizing the benefit. It's a fun number and really expresses my personality. Following my rehearsal yesterday, I wandered back to the hotel and along the way I stopped in to the San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum for their incredible exhibit entitled "Star Quality: The World of Noel Coward." You may recall that I went to the Lunts' home in Wisconsin, Ten Chimneys, last year--the famous acting couple were lifelong friends of Coward's and this exhibit started there and has expanded to what it is now in San Francisco.
Coward was one of the great theatrical minds of the last century--starting his career as a precocious child actor, by his twenties he was an established playwright who was not only prolific but fast (he wrote "Hay Fever" in three days and "Private Lives" in four), was a composer, an actor, a singer, a director--in short, he was what he came to be called later in life: The Master. I have always loved Coward and this exhibit, full of rare photographs and memorabilia (from Coward's dressing gowns, to his cigarette cases, his theatrical makeup kit and toupees), wonderful recordings and video is just thrilling. It's a glimpse into a theatrical world that, alas, no longer exists. We may never see such glamour again.

"Star Quality: I don't know what it is, but I've got it."
--Noel Coward

San Francisco's many museums offer riches that I absolutely plan to explore during the rest of my time here. Along with those explorations, I plan to get in some quality time with my brother, his wife and their kids, who all live in nearby San Jose. I don't get to see them often and it was a blast to share "Spamalot" with them--especially with my brother, who has been a die hard Python fan since the 70s. I have a few other friends in the area that I plan to spend some time with, and will no doubt continue to burn the candle at both ends! But it's all part of the adventure of this tour. Now that we know that the journey will come to an end in October, we all have the opportunity to really savor not only the sights and activities of these last great cities, but to really appreciate how lucky we are to still be getting out there and doing the work of this hugely successful and popular show. Believe me, I am deeply grateful still for this opportunity, and feel very proud and excited indeed that the creators, especially Mr. Idle, have given me their seal of approval. I am off to do a two show Saturday, so best wishes to all. More next week!

Spam Francisco

Week 74: San Francisco, CA

If you're alive, you can't be bored in San Francisco. If you're not alive, San Francisco will bring you to life.
--William Saroyan

At last! Our long awaited seven week engagement in The City by the Bay. San Francisco is one of the most distinctive, unique and amazing cities in the world. One look at the streets of this place and you know exactly where you are--it is as recognizably itself as any great city--Paris, New York, London. And it is somewhat improbable, this great metropolis built on all of these steep crazy hills--it reminds me a bit of the ingenuity and audacity that created Venice, a city on stilts in a swamp. There is something magical about the creativity and determination that brought these unique cities to life. And let me tell ya, there is no better workout for the buns and thighs than climbing the hills in this town! I just love it here. I had been to San Francisco a few times with my cabaret act, but never for more than a week at a time. This summer I get to really develop a relationship with this place. The weather, while intermittently cold (you know Mark Twain's quote about "the coldest winter I spent was summer in San Francisco") is beautiful and the place is endlessly fascinating. It has a somewhat indefinable European quality and a sophisticated charm that even New York doesn't possess. I really love it.

"Spamalot" excitement is in the air here, and our promoters are really getting us out there--the show has posters and billboards everywhere: on the sides of buses, in the subways, on nearly every street corner. We had our first weekend of preview performances, and the first one was sold out, with an ecstatic energy that gave us all a rush. Eric Idle was present at our first show and, while I didn't get to meet him, I hear he was pleased with how his creation is coming across. Our producers have enhanced the show for our California run by restoring the full orchestra and beefing up the lighting and sound. These touches, especially the fuller, richer sound of the amazing band, add so much to the experience not only for the audience, but for us. It has revitalized us all with new energy and enthusiasm.
We are performing at the Golden Gate Theatre, one of those great old venues that started as a vaudeville house in the 1920s, went through a decline with the advent of movies and the changing fortune of the sketchy Tenderloin district where it resides, and then experienced a revitalization to become one of San Francisco's leading performance venues. It has that crumbling, dusty feel of a good old fashioned theatre, where once the Marx Brothers cavorted and Frank Sinatra appeared to crowds of screaming bobby soxers.

San Francisco is a city of many cultures and many neighborhoods. I am looking forward to exploring them all and taking in the unique sights, the fabulous art museums and the historic landmarks and writing about them here. This week has been primarily about getting acclimated to my neighborhood, my apartment here, my routine; we also had a full dress rehearsal this week prior to our first preview for Casey Nicholaw, our brilliant choreographer, who gave us all thumbs up on our show. I am staying here in a sort of in between neighborhood, halfway between Nob Hill and Union Square in what is referred to here as "downtown." A 20 minute walk to the theatre district and the busy shopping center of San Francisco, I am centrally located and can easily jaunt out to the various neighborhoods of the city from here. I am staying in one of those great old residential hotels from another age, the Steinhart.
Built in 1910, its marble and mahogany lobby and gated elevator are charming, and I have a sweet little studio apartment with a Murphy bed. It's really cute. All in all, I am happily ensconced and am looking forward to the adventures here over the next several weeks and the pleasure of what I know will be a most successful run. Stay tuned for more from San Francisco next week.

Mile High

Week 73: Denver, CO

My week off in New York sped by. There were many things to attend to, people to see, and goals to accomplish. Such is the New York way, but in my case, this was my last time home for at least several months. I really was industrious, and among other things, I passed my driver's test and am now a licensed New York driver. It's funny to be saying that at my age but it's definitely an achievement, and is just in time for our California tour! I had not realized I needed the break from the show so much until I showed up for our opening here in Denver. I suddenly felt so refreshed and energized to perform, and the Denver audiences are vocal, smart and there to have a rollicking good time. Fantastic crowds.

Our energetic opening here was tempered somewhat by a visit from our general manager, who came out from New York to give us all the official news that the "Spamalot" tour will close in October, following our engagement in Costa Mesa, CA. With over three years, 101 different city stops, and over 160 million dollars in revenue, this highly successful tour will finally come to an end. It is, of course, always sad when a production has to close up shop, but it is also the nature of the theatre. I am sure that I am not the only performer in the company who is now focusing on the horizon and thinking about that next job. It's the nature of the beast. Anyway, that's all a few months off and we still have our exciting San Francisco and LA engagements to look forward to. I am grateful that I will be fortunate enough to be in the final company of the original "Spamalot" production.

Denver is a really cool town. I love the look of it, the laid back energy of it, and the weather has been wonderful. It has been quite a challenge to get used to the dryness of the air here as well as the altitude. The former makes it imperative to guzzle water all day and stave off chapped skin with lip balm and lotion; the latter makes breathing a challenge, and as you can imagine, that poses something of a difficulty when one is jumping around on stage in a musical! I have not gotten to see as much of Denver as I would have liked but I really love the visual character of the city. Old warehouse districts are now high end loft condos and chic restaurants; old buildings have been preserved, giving a taste of gold rush era Colorado, while modern structures and glass skyscrapers provide a modern edge.
The Denver Center for the Performing Arts is one such magnificent architectural feature. In the 70's, an ambitious project centered around expanding the existing old Auditorium Theatre into a multi-space performing arts complex, and today the DCPA encompasses ten different spaces with over 10,000 seats. Our theatre, the Temple Hoyne Buell Theatre, was opened in 1991 and is a really beautiful modern performance venue.

While I was in Des Moines last Christmas I was befriended by a couple of fans, Beth and her mom Karen, who saw the show a few times while we were there and who have become pen pals of mine. They decided to take a vacation to Denver while the show was here to visit relatives and see their favorite musical (and actor!) again. I had the pleasure of spending some time with Beth and Karen during their visit, and we all went to see the Denver Art Museum together.
The new wing of the museum, designed by Gio Ponti, resembles something out of "Star Trek"--all pointy angles and high tech gray tiles. The collection is relatively small but diverse, and they had a special exhibition of psychedelic concert posters from the Haight Ashbury period of the 60s in San Francisco which was fun. Of course I took Beth and Karen to the European collection to see what treasures of the Renaissance or the Baroque they might have. I was pleased to find two really exciting pieces there: "Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Hat," a famous piece by Sandro Botticelli, and a rare "Still Life With Fruit" by the master Caravaggio, on loan to the museum. One of the great joys of doing this tour and keeping this blog is that it has introduced me to some terrific people like Karen and Beth. I was delighted to visit with them here in Denver, and as fate would have it, Beth was the audience member pulled up on stage to be our "peasant" at the third performance she saw this week! What a treat for a diehard fan!




And so, with the completion of our time here in the Mile High City, the long awaited California leg of the tour will begin. We are all looking forward to a nice long stay in San Francisco at a wonderful time of year, and, since we all know now when our tour will come to an end, we will cherish these next few months. Denver has treated us well. Some of our best audiences ever, and a really swell time had by all.
Janel is my Denver dresser. She has been doing wardrobe work since she was 18 years old, and it is a family business. Janel's husband has been a wardrobe worker, her mother in law started the wardrobe union here in Denver, and she has a handful of relatives actually working on our show! She's been just lovely to work with. And so folks, it is good to be back on the road with you! San Francisco, here I come!

Emerald City and Shakespeareland

Week 72: Eugene, OR

Spring has returned. The Earth is like a child that knows poems.
--Rainer Maria Rilke

A group of us left Anchorage in the dead of night, taking an overnight flight to Portland, and from there, a bus to Eugene. Drifting in and out of sleep, I watched the dawn break over the passing Oregon landscape. Rays of sunshine breaking through cloud illuminated verdant hillsides, brilliant fields of green with sheep grazing, rich farmland, acres of wildflowers. It reminded me of the beautiful countrysides of Germany and Austria.
After the austere, dingy winter that had overstayed its welcome in Anchorage, Spring rose up at me in a riot of color and extravagant lushness. How very welcome it is. I have said often that we must seek out beauty wherever we can find it, but in Oregon it seems to simply reach out to you from all sides. Spring is here in full flower; trees bend with the weight of their blossoms, the grass is vibrant and studded with dandelions and daisies, the air is fresh and fragrant with the scent of rich, moist earth and honeysuckle.

Eugene is a charming small college town (University of Oregon is here) and something of a hippie enclave. It is nestled in a beautiful natural setting, and surrounded by lovely parks like Alton Baker Park, which lies right across from my hotel, and borders the rushing and crystalline Willamette River. It's no wonder such a green haven has been nicknamed "The Emerald City." Green thinking and environmental awareness are part of the lifestyle here, as are all forms of outdoor exercise, from running to biking. On Saturday the town hosts the oldest outdoor market in the country; grocery stores and farmer's markets burst with the freshest produce. There are funky shops and art galleries at the 5th Ave Market, as well as numerous excellent eateries. In short, Eugene is as lovely a place to spend a week as any I can remember visiting--I have the same feeling of well being and balance here that I had back in Greenville, SC last year. Places like this make you feel healthier and more relaxed. And fortunately, our week started with three whole days off in which I explored the area, wandering the woods and strolling along the river, taking pictures, watching the migrating geese float downstream with their little goslings in tow, or sitting by the rushing water under a shady tree reading Pablo Neruda. Folks, life is good.
And if that's not enough, there's the glorious Oregon coast 50 miles away. The rocky coastline rising above the Pacific is what I would imagine the coast of Ireland to be like. Green, craggy, majestic. Oregon is growing on me.

Back in January, in wintry South Bend, I concocted a plan to visit the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland while we are here in Eugene. I was working on learning to drive, and my intention was to reward the achievement of my license with a road trip to Ashland. I bought theatre tickets and requested a rare personal day. I also booked a room at a charming bed and breakfast, and wrote to the artistic staff of the Festival and requested an audition. They agreed to see me during my overnight visit this week. Let me try to explain what going to OSF and auditioning for them meant to me.

Oregon Shakespeare Festival is a Tony Award-winning regional theatre that is going into its 75th year of continuous operation; it is an American institution.
It is also only one of three Shakespeare Festivals in the world that work as a genuine repertory company (The Stratford Ontario Festival and The Royal Shakespeare Company are the others), presenting a full season of rotating productions in three incredible spaces. The Elizabethan Stage is a replica of an early Elizabethan playhouse for a stunning outdoor experience, the Bowmer Theatre is their arena style thrust stage space, and the New Theatre is a black box, in the round venue. It's a Shakespeare dork's dream! And the theatre is the main attraction in charming Ashland, a slice of real Americana here in the northwest. White picket fences, Craftsman style houses, perfect gardens. Funky antique shops and dynamite restaurants. And I love the campy names that businesses have adopted inspired by Shakespeare such as: Puck's Donuts, Juliet Hair Salon, All's Well Nature Foods, and my personal favorites--a music store called CD Or Not CD, and a storage company called As U Stor It. At the Black Sheep you can get a black and tan and a genuine Welsh rarebit or a Norfolk fish pie. I could go on and on about my little overnight jaunt to Ashland. I saw two shows, a violent modern dress "Macbeth" and the zany and completely delicious Commedia dell'Arte Farce, "The Servant of Two Masters." I snuck into the Elizabethan Theatre and watched, a bit jealously, a rehearsal for a scene in the upcoming "All's Well That Ends Well." I practiced my soliloquy for "Richard III" in nearby Lithia park, which is as close to the Forest of Arden as I have ever seen. At one point, I was speaking my speech, and a deer crossed my path and looked at me. Richard the third and a deer had a standoff in a woodland glen.




What can I say, folks? I love classical theatre and there are still many roles I would love to try my hand at in the Shakespeare canon. So, I was honored to audition for Oregon Shakespeare Festival while I was there. This would be akin to a ballet dancer auditioning for ABT, or an opera singer auditioning for the Met. By the way, I didn't get my license during the layoff, so I had to fly from Eugene to Medford, 20 miles from Ashland, and hire a car to drive me there. I swear, during my vacation next week, I will do my damnedest to pass that driving test! Grrr! So, back to Eugene. Our run at the Hult Center, a beautiful theatre, is going great, and the audiences here are vocal and enthusiastic. My dresser here is the lovely Gwen.
Gwen, as you might imagine, was once a model and also worked in the fashion industry before finding her way into costume design in Los Angeles and now here in Oregon. She's simply beautiful and a great dresser, such a sweetie. And now, my friends, I am heading home to New York for a week's vacation, while the company goes on to Spokane. So I will reconnect with you the week after from Denver, Colorado.

500

Week 71: Anchorage, AK

This week, my friends Tim and Angela and I rented a car and drove out along Seward Highway in the direction of Portage glacier to take in the scenery. The Alaskan landscape is awe inspiring. Vast, unspoiled expanses of sea and snow, majestic mountain peaks and towering pines.
Waterfalls and mountain streams that trickle down the sides of steep rock faces that rise above one as one drives the coastal highways. Eagles circle overhead as the sunlight dazzles off the sparkling water and gleams across the polished, icy glazed surfaces of the craggy peaks. Chill, fresh mountain air fills the lungs and numbs the nose and cheeks. Surveying these panoramas, we couldn't help commenting on how small and insignificant we humans are in contrast with the awesome majesty of nature. Truly, I understand now why people choose to make this part of the world their home. Our little band scrambled over rocks, climbed to lookouts and visited a wildlife preservation center where we were able to view bison, moose, caribou.
We had the pleasure of watching a reindeer mom attending to her newborn calf, a fluffy black baby with spindly, still-uncertain legs. I think we tend to get so caught up in the little dramas of our lives, we humans, that we forget that there is a natural world out there, as basic as our true, essential selves, which exists in a timeless cycle that we would do well to connect with more often than we do. How fortunate we are also to live in such a vast and beautiful country that encompasses so many different landscapes and ecosystems. Talk about purple mountain's majesty.

This week marked my 500th performance in "Spamalot." This is half of what several original tour members have performed, but for me it's certainly a significant achievement, and the most performances I have ever given of any one role. It's a mindblower to think of the many places I have been and fine performers who have come and gone from our little "Spamily," and the thousands and thousands of people I have helped entertain over the past 16 months. All I can really say is that I am grateful as hell to have such a great job during these uncertain economic times and to be able to say I am a working actor. It's something I have spent many years dreaming of and struggling for, and to realize that I have been continuously employed as a performer for over a year is humbling and deeply gratifying.

Our second week in Anchorage has been certainly as successful as the first, with word of mouth bringing enthusiastic crowds to the theatre every night. John O'Hurley has integrated himself into our production with finesse and is now a charming, befuddled and delightful leader as King Arthur. We are able to jell somewhat now as a company after a flurry of changes in the cast, and all eyes are set on our San Francisco opening in a few weeks. California, and the happy promise of multi-week "sit downs" in San Francisco and LA have loomed on the horizon all winter, and we are all excited to be on the brink of getting there. From Alaska, we head to Eugene, Oregon, where I will be making a brief pilgrimage to Ashland and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, and then, when the company goes on to Spokane, Washington I will be taking a week's vacation to return to New York, conquer my nerves and nail my driving test! From there, it's a week in Denver and then on to our opening in San Francisco. Several of you have written me asking about dates beyond San Francisco, as the official "Spamalot" website has not posted dates yet. We will be at the Ahmanson Theatre in LA from July 7 through September 6, and a week in San Diego follows that engagement. September is as far as our official itinerary goes at present but the tour will continue beyond that.

Vicki is my dresser in Anchorage.
She trained originally to be an actress, and many years ago was offered a teaching job up here, fell in love with Alaska, and stayed. She has taught drama, debate and public speaking as well as math on the high school level up here, and keeps her hand in in the theatre world as often as possible, acting and working wardrobe among other activities. Our whole Anchorage crew has been a friendly, welcoming lot and it has been a most enjoyable engagement. I confess, however, that I am ready for the warm. Pretty as this part of the country is, I am hankering after some real spring weather. Perhaps it's waiting for us in Oregon. More from there next week.

Northern Exposure

Week 70: Anchorage, AK

Welcome back! I had a hectic, but ultimately good week off in New York. Got my taxes done, visited with old friends, and made it to three Broadway shows. I also took my driver's road test, but alas, nerves prevailed and I failed. Which means that in a couple week's time I will be taking a vacation in order to return to New York and retake the test. I am undaunted and determined to get to California as a licensed driver!

So here we are in Anchorage for almost two weeks. I admit that I wrote a whole blog post about my reaction to Alaska but discarded it because I realized that from where I have been and lived my whole life, the Alaskan way of life is something very foreign to me and I had a lot of judgments about it. While these observations may have been entertaining, they were ultimately unenlightened and needed rethinking! Alaska is remote, and the people who live here have a keen sense that they live in a place and a culture far removed from much of American life. As such, they take great pride in their way of life, and have an interesting paradoxical relationship with the wildlife and natural beauty that surrounds them. The animals that populate Alaska, from moose to caribou, from wolves to salmon, are celebrated everywhere here: on wall murals, statues in public squares, and in numerous depictions from fine art to tourist trap souvenirs. Wildlife is also seen as a source of income, commerce and sport for Alaskans. There seem to be almost as many fur shops in Anchorage than there are coffee shops and bars--which is saying a lot. Alaskans are passionate about coffee and love their microbrews and booze. Anchorage is a PETA supporter's worst nightmare. The minute you get off the plane you are confronted by an airport display of the trophies of the hunter and the taxidermist's art, in the form of decapitated moose and deer heads and even an entire stuffed polar bear in a glass case.
In an effort to understand the whole hunter culture I have visited websites and picked up pamphlets about things like "Predator Control," which essentially is the systematic slaughter of wolves and bears in the wild which feed on moose and caribou, thus leaving more moose and caribou for "harvesting" by hunters. I just wonder in what way the "harvesters" are different from the "predators." And I wonder too if moose and caribou meat and skins etc are of real use to people who don't necessarily live any more in an arctic wilderness. Again, I make assumptions. But blood sport holds no fascination for me and it is difficult for me to be open minded about it. There's also controversy here about efforts to get oil drilling going offshore and in nature preserves and national parks. This was, of course, one of the cornerstones of Sarah Palin's message during the presidential campaign. And again, it is part of the conundrum of human beings living so much surrounded by nature and wildlife, and yet having the usual human urges for comfort, profit and "progress." I had a surreal moment the other morning as I walked to the gym around 9AM and saw coming toward me a fancy hansom cab, led by two horses in jingle bell harnesses and driven by a man in a top hat. As the rig jingled past, I saw that in the back was someone dressed in a polar bear suit, holding up a sign that read, "Drill, Baby, Drill." It went along its way and I stood there and gaped, as local residents went about their business, completely oblivious to this bizarre nose-thumbing at environmental protection.




All of that said, there is much to appreciate about Anchorage, not the least of which is its gorgeous natural setting, surrounded by majestic snowy mountains, glaciers and expanses of mud flats. While it is not unusual to see a moose roaming the downtown streets, as of this writing, I have not yet had the pleasure of a sighting! The town itself is a unique mix of cultures and an odd assortment of buildings--while the people have a great deal of character and diversity, the town itself lacks a cohesive, attractive look. Lots of boxy structures , a few glass office buildings, and a plethora of souvenir shops, everything coated in a thin layer of grime from a hard winter of snow and road salt. There is an odd, suburban feeling mall in the center of town, and the large Alaska Center for the Performing Arts, where we make our home this week.
The Center was built in 1989 and our venue, the Atwood Concert Hall, has a very interesting and colorful interior, which resembles a series of teepees fanning out from the proscenium arch. Our audiences have been terrific and buzz around town has been ecstatic--there are some hardcore Monty Python fans out here, and on our opening night, they were cheering for familiar characters and situations as fast as we could parade them out for them! One thing that does characterize Anchorage is the food, glorious food. Wonderful restaurants abound here, from genteel Italian and Pan Asian bistros, to traditional seafood restaurants and brewhouses, to local favorites like the Snow City Cafe, which serves hearty breakfasts all day and makes the most delicious homemade granola (I bought a huge bag of it and eat it all day long). The popular bars, like Humpy's, where one can enjoy everything from trivia tournaments to live blues bands, are hopping every night of the week. I guess in a place where the winters are long and sometimes the sun never seems to set on a landscape that can be more than 20 degrees below zero much of the year, nice warm corners to eat a good meal or drink a nice brew are highly prized.

Now that the delightful John O'Hurley has opened as King Arthur, we do not have the same hectic schedule of rehearsals we were doing prior to the layoff. So Anchorage has been a place for quiet contemplation and lazy days of exploration, with plenty of free time to rest. The Anchorage Museum, regrettably, does not open until May, but I have had the pleasure of exploring some very nice art galleries featuring local artists, most choosing as their subjects the natural beauty of the region and the art of the indigenous cultures. Next week, a few of us are renting a car and driving out to view the glaciers and other wonders of the surrounding landscape. Full report and photos on that next week, when we will complete our two week run here in Alaska, and I will reach the 500th performance mark with the "Spamalot" tour! Phew!

King Richard's Himself Again

Week 69: Cleveland, OH

This week marked our last performances with Richard Chamberlain, as well as a landmark birthday for our reigning king--his 75th. I wish I could adequately express my admiration for "Mr. C." (as I have come to call him) and the work he has done with us in his three months with "Spamalot." He has been a study in devotion and personal discipline. He literally spent every day in his hotel room, resting and preparing for each performance; he ran through his entire show in his dressing room before going on every night. Richard is also an inspiration to those of us who aspire to longevity in our careers as actors: he is fit, vital, loves performing, and didn't miss a single one of his shows during his time with us. I hope that when I reach 75 I will be doing just what Mr. C. is doing, and will be as loved and respected as his fans have shown him to be, with a standing ovation each and every night. On our opening night here, Richard was presented with an enormous birthday cake on stage after curtain call in front of a cheering crowd. It was a great moment. I will miss Richard's kindness, gentleness and enthusiasm. All the best, always, Mr. C.

When we arrived in Cleveland, it was still in the grip of winter, but as the week has progressed, the weather has gotten more and more springlike. However, Cleveland is vying with Oklahoma City for windiest city I have been to on this tour. The gusts that whip across the city off Lake Erie are something fierce. Cleveland has a nice, solid look and has many large, imposing neoclassical pre-war buildings and impressive monuments. These are the result of the 1903 Group Plan, and constitute one of the most complete examples of "City Beautiful" design in the United States. We are staying in Playhouse Square, where our theatre, The Palace, shares the district with the Ohio, Allen, State and Hanna theatres, making it the largest U.S. performing arts center, after Lincoln Center in New York.
Cleveland is a theatre town, with two large regional theatres and numerous other performing arts institutions. The Palace is a magnificent theatre, originally built in 1922 as a vaudeville circuit theatre, in the French Renaissance style, with rose damask walls and Carrara Marble, crystal chandeliers and a glorious domed ceiling medallion. With its more than 3,000 seats and the opulence of its interior, it is one of the finest theatres I have played in my months on this tour.

On Wednesday I went to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.
Why, you may ask, is this venerable institution in Cleveland? Well, in the 1950s, legendary DJ Alan Freed coined the term "rock and roll" to describe the upbeat rhythm and blues music by black artists which he was then promoting on his popular Cleveland radio program. Thus, Cleveland became the birthplace of rock and roll. The Hall of Fame is a magnificent complex, housed in what looks like a glass pyramid perched on the edge of Lake Erie. It is an overwhelming collection of memorabilia and artifacts, interactive displays and multi-media installations spanning the entire history of rock and roll, from its roots in the blues and gospel music through the decades. In short, it is the Smithsonian of rock and roll music. One needs far more than the two hours I allotted myself to explore the museum, and after a while my head began to swim from all the stimulation, both visual and aural. I loved seeing the stage costumes of some of the greats of popular music, from Madonna's bustiers, to Michael Jackson's rhinestone studded white glove, to David Bowie's Ziggy Stardust costumes.
My two favorite things in the Hall of Fame were: a film instillation called "Video Killed the Radio Star" which is a brilliantly edited exploration of the impact of the music video both on music and popular culture--really fantastic piece of film making, presented on multiple screens in a dazzling display; and a small piece of history--a handwritten letter from Dusty Springfield to her producer regarding the songs she was choosing to record for her legendary "Dusty in Memphis" album. This album is a masterpiece and one of my favorites of all time, and to see this early bit of creative conception from one of my absolutely favorite artists was a real treat. Goosebumps! The current special exhibition is on Bruce Springsteen, and chronicles his career via some wonderful memorabilia, much of it from The Boss's own collection. There was a quote from him in the exhibit that really resonated with me, so I wrote it down:

I believe that the life of a Rock and Roll band will last as long as you look down into the audience and can see yourself, and your audience looks up at you and can see themselves, and as long as those reflections are human, realistic ones.

Words to work by for any live performer, in my opinion. Check out the Hall of Fame when you are next in Cleveland. By revisiting the history of American music, we find that we are exploring the history of Americans. Very cool.

On a rainy afternoon I went out via public transport, through the sprawling Case Western Reserve University campus, to the Cleveland Museum of Art. The museum is undergoing extensive renovations at this time, so a good portion of the collection was closed to the public; nevertheless, what was accessible was well worth the trip. The highlight of my visit was the current special exhibition of the captivating photography of Lee Friedlander. I think I have mentioned before my love of photography, and my enjoyment of taking photos myself. I have also mentioned that one of the pleasures of traveling and seeing as much art as I have been fortunate enough to see, is the discovery of artists whose work really excites me and makes me an instant fan. I had this experience with photographer Andre Kertesz, and now I am completely enamored of Friedlander.
Many may know his work for his wonderful portraits of famous musicians like Aretha Franklin and Miles Davis, but Friedlander's range extends far beyond portraiture-- to incredible landscape photography, to the capturing of remarkable images of American life through a unique and sublimely wise and ironic eye. His self portraits are wonderful, and are often simply his capturing of his own shadow projected on to a person or place he is photographing. He loves to view things in layers, calling our attention not just to the central subject of a photo, but forcing us to view it through reflective glass, or beyond obstructions in the foreground, or in contrast with other elements in the frame. I just loved seeing his work, which ranges from gritty candid moments to sublime, sensual images of nature. I found myself laughing out loud at the unique moments that his subtly humorous eye captures. I related strongly to his vision, and was inspired to take more photos myself--and I think all great artists inspire others to want to view life in their own particular way, and to create. I love this quote from Friedlander, which gives real insight to his artistic view:

I only wanted Uncle Vern standing by his new car... on a clear day, I got him and the car. I also got a bit of Aunt Mary's laundry and Beau Jack, the dog, peeing on a fence, and... seventy-eight trees and a million pebbles in the driveway and more. It's a generous medium, photography.

--Lee Friedlander, 1996

No trip to a fine art museum for me would be complete without exploring what they have from the Baroque period. One really beautiful gallery contrasts the opposing movements of the period: Naturalism, as exemplified by Caravaggio, and Idealism, as represented by Guido Reni and his followers.
Obviously, I prefer the more dramatic, full blooded work of the Naturalists, and was delighted to see that the museum possesses a Caravaggio, "The Crucifixion of St. Andrew." With unflinching honesty and an understanding of the human form in all its complexity, the master gives us a scene of rich, earthy power. Other favorites of mine in the Cleveland collection are the completely delicious "Cupid and Psyche" by David, a portrait of a mischievous adolescent boy rising from the bed of pleasure, where his ivory skinned lover lies sleeping. Cupid looks straight out at us with a grin and a decided twinkle in his eye, which makes this painting wonderfully naughty. I also fell for a small portrait by 18th century French artist Nicholas de Largillierre, of the Comte de Richbourg-le-Toureil.
Eschewing the notion of idealizing his subject, de Largillierre gives us a strong, optimistic young man with a slight shadow of a beard, wonderfully textured clothes, and even the fallout of white dust on his shoulders from his fashionably powdered hair. I find it most fascinating to notice what an artist chooses to include within the frame of his image (whether photograph or painting) and what he leaves out.



Beverly is my Cleveland dresser.
She has been working in wardrobe for 40 years and dressed Sir Robin the first time the tour came through two years ago. It is always a pleasure to work with the seasoned pros who have dedicated a lifetime to the work of the theatre. Well, that's it for Cleveland. We are all very much looking forward to our week off next week before our two week engagement in Anchorage, Alaska, where we hope we will not be buried in molten lava from the increasingly restless Mount Redoubt. More in two weeks, friends, from Anchorage.