Urban Sprawl

Week 62: Detroit, MI


Downtown Detroit is, I am sorry to say, a dying city. It is a depressed, desolate place in many ways. I have become friends with some local people who live outside the city limits and who despair of Detroit proper ever returning to a place of vitality and life. Detroit is a place that reflects the struggles of industry, the impact of the economy and the tragedy of a palpable racial divide. Life is very different 20 to 30 minutes in any direction outside of Motor City. The suburbs are thriving, self contained little communities. One such picturesque town is Birmingham, a neighboring community to Troy, where our hotels are. Ed, a new friend who lives in Birmingham, showed me around this affluent enclave, full of lakeside homes, trendy shops and quaint streets. We did some window shopping and I finally accepted my need for reading glasses and purchased a snazzy pair at Optik, a high end optical boutique. If I'm gonna get old, I am gonna do it in style!
Near Birmingham, in Bloomfield Hills, is the campus of Cranbrook, a private school and art academy on a beautiful stretch of ground with buildings designed by Eliel Saarinen in the Arts and Crafts style. The Cranbrook Museum of Art (which was regrettably closed the day we visited) is a lovely building, like a Greek temple in the Art Deco style, and surrounded by wonderful sculptures by Swedish sculptor Carl Milles. I am quite sure the Cranbrook campus is just lovely in warmer weather, with the trees in bloom and the fountains and reflecting pools in operation. It was nice to see this National Historic Landmark, even if only for few moments, and take some photos.

My week has mostly been taken up with the show, a photo shoot with renowned Broadway photographer Joan Marcus (who came out to shoot pictures of Richard Chamberlain and our other new principals), my workout schedule, my taxes, and enjoying the schizophrenic Michigan midwinter weather, which has ranged from humid days of pouring rain to icy deep freezes. During this time I have also had the pleasure of some quiet contemplation, and the joy of receiving some wonderful emails from audience members here in Detroit who have loved the show, and from dear new friends that I have made along the way as I have toured with the show. I find that I have been extraordinarily blessed to have been reached out to by some amazing people, who have shared their stories with me and who have renewed my faith in the spirit and the strength that are in all of us. You have reached out to me in kindness and generosity and have given me the gift of allowing me to touch your lives as well. It is easy these days to focus on the stress and anxiety that come with the challenges that our country and our world are facing. Easy to look at the deserted streets of Detroit, for example, and feel a sense of futility. But if we just reach out a little--allow our inner knowing to extend itself--we realize that these things are cyclical, that life ebbs and flows, and that out of the ashes of what is lost arises new life and new opportunity. As we pass through transitions like this, our greatest power is in our ability to be kind, loving, and generous with each other. I would like to think that, as an actor, I am privileged to reach out to so many more people with my enthusiasm, and my hope, and my love, than most get to do. The message of our show, underneath the sight gags and the glitter, is timely. "If life seems jolly rotten, there's something you've forgotten: and that's to laugh and smile and dance and sing." Thanks to all of you who have written and shared with me that what I do has lifted you up. I am so grateful to have the chance to share that with you.

Now, as sadly ruined as Detroit is there is still beauty. As you know, one of my determinations in life is to seek beauty everywhere I go. Thus my obsession with art museums. The Detroit Institute of the Arts does not disappoint. It's a really terrific museum with masterpieces from all periods. I feel that they work a little too hard at making the museum "visitor friendly" and educating people on art. Every gallery is full of interactive displays and many of the exhibits are designed to compare and contrast paintings from various artists and periods. While I am sure it makes museum going more educational and fun for kids, for me it was just distracting and cluttered and drew attention away from a simple appreciation of the work.
That said, my hunger for the Italian Baroque was wonderfully sated in the gallery devoted to the Carravagisti. At the glowing center of the collection is a piece by the master himself, Martha and Mary Magdalene, by Caravaggio. Luminous, rich, startlingly real, it is, as are all of his works, astonishing. I was even allowed to take flash free photos of the piece which was incredible. Alongside this masterwork are others by some of the most accomplished painters of the school, including one by Orazio Gentileschi and one by his daughter, Artemisia. The story of this wonderful Baroque painter, the first woman to be admitted into the Accademia di Arte del Disegno in Florence, is one of the great stories of classical art. There is a film called "Artemisia" that is well worth adding to your Netflix queue. Anyway, it was wonderful to see these representatives of my favorite school of art in Detroit. There are many more treasures in the DIA, including wonderful WPA murals by Diego Rivera, the famous Wedding Dance by Breughel, a marvelous collection of portraits by John Singleton Copley. They were showing a special exhibit of photographs of artists taken by other artists. Among the photographers represented were favorites of mine, like Andre Kertesz and George Platt Lynes. It does the soul good to see such a rich and varied trove of artistic wonders, even in a troubled city like Detroit. Thank you Ed, for taking me there and for a memorable afternoon.

Meet Pam, my wonderful Detroit dresser.
Pam is a continual surprise. With a gentle, unassuming personality and a quiet touch, she is also funny and stylish and irreverent. One evening after the show we were chatting about a post show drink, and she piped up that for her it would be a dirty martini-and a cigar! I was so tickled by that. Pam started in the wardrobe world as a stitcher at a young age and has done virtually every aspect of wardrobe work over a career of 30 years. She has grown kids and a husband and is now coming into that time (that hopefully we all come to) when it is time to focus on herself and doing things that are fulfilling and creative for Pam. I have been going through an introspective time of new understanding and spiritual growth and I have recognized a kindred spirit in Pam. Our conversations have really been a comfort and a pleasure during my time in Detroit. All the best to you Pam! We begin our Southern migration next week in Huntsville, Alabama. Here's to warmer climes and happy times.