"Come On Down!"

Week 82: Los Angeles, CA

This week was an apt continuation of my LA education--I got a real taste of the contradictions of this city, from the lowbrow to the highbrow. There is no doubt that this is an amazing, sprawling city; the weather is consistently perfect, the freeways consistently frustrating, and the range of things to do endless. I spent my Monday off on the beach soaking up the California sunshine and plunging into the turbulent, chilly Pacific waters. One of my favorite things to do at the end of a beach day is to clean up, put on something crisp and cool, and go out for a seafood dinner. A small group of us enjoyed a swanky meal at Mirabelle on the famous Sunset Strip. Classy.

Wednesday's adventure was far from classy, but it was a fun time nonetheless. Twenty-five members of the cast and crew of "Spamalot" went to a taping of "The Price is Right." To say it was a hoot would never come near to capturing the absurdity and hilarity of the day. We had to arrive en masse at 9AM, to begin the screening process, which included security processing, the distribution of those crazy yellow name tags shaped like price tags, and brief interviews during which one assumes the decisions were made as to who would be the lucky audience members called down to play the game.
Around lunchtime, we filed into the studio, which is far smaller than it appears on TV, with the most garish and tacky set I have ever seen. The spectacle that is "The Price is Right," is, to me, a little snapshot of the essence of American culture. It is a paean to materialism surrounded by chaser lights; a chance for a whole bunch of ordinary folks to put themselves out there for the lucky chance of doing what Americans want most in life--getting something for nothing. And the inordinate glee and excitement that people can summon up over a set of flatware, or a catamaran, or a bedroom set, is nothing short of ludicrous. The taping was the loudest thing I have ever experienced--shrieking, shouting, cheering, applauding ad nauseum. I'm not saying I didn't have fun--it was really quite fun to watch. I was delighted not to get called up; one of our showgirls, Vanessa, got to compete, although she didn't win any major prizes. The nicest surprise of the whole thing was observing the host, Drew Carey, who is one of the nicest, most genuine, down to earth guys I have ever seen. He went out of his way to show interest in the audience members, to take the time to sign autographs and to fill the breaks in taping with very funny banter and amusing stories. I came away understanding why Carey has made such a success for himself; he's immensely likable. By the way, if you have a yen to catch a glimpse of the "Spamalot" group in the audience of "The Price is Right," our segment airs October 21.

Thursday, a good friend from college, who was out here on a family vacation, invited me to lunch. And to my delight, it turned out to be a Jewish soul food lunch! While Jewish delicacies were hard to find in San Francisco, here in Hollywood one need look no further than Fairfax Avenue, where there are numerous Jewish shops, bakeries and restaurants.
The great granddaddy of the food emporiums is Canter's, an absolutely fabulous slice of old world authentic Jewish deli, which was started in New Jersey in the 1920's, then transplanted to Los Angeles in 1931, where it has been serving up matzoh ball soup, corned beef, and other delicacies for generations. Just the smell of the bakery as you walk in tells you you have stepped into an authentic experience. They even make cherry hamantaschen (little triangular tarts made of crumbly pastry dough and filled with fruit), my favorite kind (Mom used to make them for us), and bialys (short for a bialystock pletzel, which is essentially a cross between a roll and a bagel with a deep impression in the center filled with savory onions). And does Canter's have the right kind of pickles? Are you meshugenah? Of course! In fact, the restaurant pickles their own kosher dills every day--one of the only delis in the US that does it. It was a wonderful treat to eat there and hear my friend Susan's stories of when she worked there as a waitress and served numerous celebs and show biz old timers.

Friday, I decided I needed an art fix, so I drove out to visit the Getty Museum. This phenomenal art institution is gorgeously situated on a dramatic hilltop in LA's Santa Monica Mountains.
It has to be reached via a tram up the side of the mountain, and the spectacular site commands breathtaking views of the city. The five pavilions that make up the museum are at once modern and classic, made of bleached beige stone reminiscent of Egyptian temples, and the permanent collection spans all significant periods of art, with special galleries dedicated to photography, decorative arts and even a jewel of a gallery kept dim to protect a lovely collection of fragile pastel masterpieces. The featured exhibition was of French bronzes from the 17th and 18th centuries. These dark, dramatic pieces depicting mythical creatures and characters were created for the great Kings of France, including the great patron of the arts, 'The Sun King," Louis XIV. The ingenuity and skill it took to create these statues and monuments was extraordinary.
I of course visited the Italian Baroque galleries, looking for paintings from the Carravaggist school. My favorite piece from the period was "Lot and his Daughters," by Orazio Gentileschi, one of the masters of the Naturalist school and father to Artemisia Gentileschi, who I have mentioned in a previous blog post. The Getty, like most great museums, is so extensive that it's impossible to really see everything in a matter of a couple hours--but suffice to say, the collection is glorious, and contains some great masterworks, from Van Gogh's "Irises" to perhaps the most famous image captured by surrealist photographer Man Ray, entitled "Tears." The grounds and gardens of the Getty are spectacular, overflowing with exotic plants and flowers richly in bloom, interspersed with fountains and water features, sculptures and exquisite vistas to look at. It's a feast for the senses, that's for sure. The combination of natural beauty and magnificent artworks acted like a tonic on me and lifted my spirits.




I often talk about looking for the beauty wherever you go. You can always find it, whether it be in the people you meet, the places you find yourself in, or in the small unexpected moments and encounters that make life a constant surprise. I love to quote Keats, who wrote that "beauty is truth, truth beauty;" in Los Angeles there is beauty, both true and false. Image is incredibly important to those who reside and work here and the extremes to which people will go in pursuit of physical perfection are sometimes impressive and sometimes alarming. I love looking at pretty people, but to me true beauty emanates from within, from a sense of humor, from personal warmth, and from a sense of joie de vivre. No matter how pretty the package is, if it's empty inside it is ultimately worthless. I have seen some ostentatious fashion statements and outrageous plastic surgeries out here, that, far from projecting a sense of beauty, just reveal an ultimate hollowness of spirit. Some may jump up and down with delight over the prospect of winning a brand new car or a trip to Maui, some may be impressed by clothing labels or expensive automobiles. Give me a few moments in front of a magnificent piece of art, or a whiff of sweetness from a rose warmed by the sun, or the smile on an old friend's face that conjures up memories of good times. These speak to a beauty that has nothing to do with money, commerce, fashion trends or an obsession with being young, pretty and rich. They speak to the priceless, timeless riches of the soul. LA can appear soulless until you look a little deeper. There's real beauty amongst the tinsel and glitter. It's nice to know.