Nothing Could Be Fine-ah

Week 19: Greenville, SC

"Actors are the only honest hypocrites. Their life is a voluntary dream; and the height of their ambition is to be beside themselves."
--William Hazlitt (inscribed on a street tile in Greenville, SC)


The highlight of our bus ride from Birmingham to Greenville was a stop at our stage manager Jovon's favorite southern chain restaurant, a Georgia tradition called Varsity. Varsity is all red and white and has the feeling of a 50's diner. All it needs is car hops on roller skates. They specialize in greasy chili dogs and burgers, and things like the Frozen Orange (a sort of slushie that tastes like a Creamsicle) and fried pie. Yes, that's what I said--fried pie (and it's damn good, lord help me). If anyone had told me a year ago that I would be sitting in Norcross, Georgia eating fried pie wearing a silly paper hat I would have guffawed in their face. But when in Rome! It was a very silly and very fattening detour on our way to our next destination.




One of the great pleasures of this tour is that I get to discover places I never even thought about going to. My friend Tim from Montgomery, AL had told me that Greenville was the city that the rest of the south now held up as a model for what a southern city should be. It is easy to see why. Greenville is a clean, quaint and charming town with all the style and conveniences of the 21st century. The streets of downtown are so pristine one is reminded of a Disney Epcot exhibit--"Southern Town of Tomorrow," or something. Artsy without the grit, urban without the, well, grit. Where Birmingham was a creepy ghost town at night, Greenville is alive with activity and the main strip is lined with restaurants purveying every possible kind of cuisine, from sushi to Dutch (would you believe). We arrived here on a Monday night, and the bars and restaurants were packed with well heeled customers. If we have our first night free in any given place I try to go out for a nice meal. A group of us went to a place called Soby's, which serves modern reinterpretations of traditional southern dishes, and even has its own cookbook. The meal was terrific and the price a fraction of what it would have been at a comparable restaurant in New York. It is clear that the residents of Greenville are living the good life, and they even seem to have an air about them of pride and self satisfaction.

The main reason that downtown Greenville feels so new is that it is new! In the mid-1980's, the south end of Main Street in Greenville looked like many other downtowns across the country - empty store fronts, vacant lots, and a rapidly diminishing business community. The city of Greenville decided it was time to rejuvenate what had been the very heart of downtown, and in 1985, Mayor Bill Workman appointed a citizens' committee to investigate building a performing arts center. Three branches of Greenville's Peace family kicked off a capital fund drive by pledging $10 million in the memories of Roger C. Peace, B.H. Peace, Jr., and Frances Peace Graham - no strings attached.
Thus, the Peace Center was born, and we are performing there this week. If any one has any doubts about the value of the arts to the life and sustenance of a community they need to visit Greenville. Having a top-notch performance venue helps to encourage restaurants and music venues and creates a lively interest in the community for the arts. Greenville has several small theatre companies and numerous art galleries.

On a sparkling spring day I wandered into what is known here as the West End of town. I know I have said before on this blog that beauty is everywhere and we only have to look for it. In Greenville, you don't have to look far. So much thought and care has gone into making this place aesthetically pleasing and visitor-friendly.

Falls Park on the Reedy River is one of the most magnificent public parks I have ever visited. Wrapping around a beautiful series of small dams and waterfalls that used to power textile mills in the early days of Greenville, the park is beautifully landscaped, full of stepped gardens, shaded swings and pleasant walks, and across it stretches the beautiful Liberty suspension bridge. With the rushing waters, the lush greenery and floral plantings, it is an idyllic spot for a picnic. Beyond the park lies the West End area, which I was told by a shop owner has seen a renaissance in just the past three years. Here one can find antique stores, art galleries, a spa and a wellness center, and numerous fun shops and restaurants. If I were ever to leave the world of show business for a quieter existence, Greenville is just the sort of charming place I would enjoy settling into. It just makes you feel good. So as to keep this post from being too epic, I will sign off. More from Greenville later this week, including the now traditional introduction of my dresser and other stuff.